Molokai Rocks...!!!!

Welll, not really, but it does show you some fantastic scenery and history. Actually Molokai is probably the most laid back island, having signs such as "If you are in a hurry, you are on the wrong island." There are no stop lights on the whole island and the population is about 7000 with the largest percentage of true Hawaiians than any other island so therefore the island most like old Hawaii. With very few condo complexes on Molokai we felt lucky to get a nice one bedroom in a well manicured site, oceanfront with pool, BBQ's and tennis courts. Molokai is also called the friendly isle. No problem getting info and directions. We scouted the isle the first day and booked our tour of Kalaupapa for Monday. Molokai has the largest barrier reef in the northern hemisphere and isolated beautiful beaches. Sunday they have a local jam session on the lanai of the Coffees of Hawaii building with sing alongs which, of course, we participated in. Local recording artist 'Lono' made a guest appearance with the house group and we like this style of Hawaiian music, kinda jazzy. But now on to our highlight, the hike down the highest seacliffs in the world onto the coastal plain. This is where Kamehameha V banished the Hawaiians who contracted leprosy. And while we were climbing down you could see how this is a natural area with no way out for them. You could also see fantastic views of the ocean, the pali, more sea cliffs and the now restored village below. Father Damien will be canonized a saint any day now in Rome, festivities to be followed here in Hawaii and on the peninsula next to the restored St. Philomena church and his gravesite. During our tour we realized what a good man he was, as those afflicted would not have survived without his dedication and gift of hope. Next was our hike out. So as not to describe the difficulty in covering the 2000 ft straight up with countless switchbacks I will just say that my quads and calfs screamed at me for two days after. Yes, you can take a mule down but we thought we would experience it the way Father Damien did when he went 'topside'. Only later did I learn that he mostly rode a horse up. Nowadays there is a landing strip there. We had a full bus tour with 6 flying in, 6 of us hiking in, and at least a dozen including our bus driver rode mules down. Learning of the history of the colony was both enlightening and starkly moving. Definitely a must do when on the island. The next day tentatively was to do another hike to the Halawa valley and falls. We decided the hike was out but we would still drive the amazing easterly coast to the valley floor and view the falls. What a drive. I say, better than the road to Hana although shorter, thankly. It was one lane hanging on the cliffs with hairpin turns and awesome views. At the end was a surreal valley where Jurasic Park II was filmed. Our last day was spent at the Meyer Sugar Mill now restored with much of the original sugar making equipment. What is so great about touring these remote islands is that the written history is so short, now just a bit over 200 years, and so much has changed these islands in that time. And to me Molokai rocks along with the rest of these islands! Next stop Lanai.